You've probably already noticed that specialty coffee offers an aromatic palette that's out of the ordinary; grape, strawberry, dark chocolate and hibiscus are just a few examples of what you can find in terms of flavor and aroma."Yes, but Geek, will my coffee still taste like coffee even if there are notes of blueberry and blackcurrant?" Yes and no! I'll give you an overview of "how and why" coffee can possess these characteristics and try to answer this question I'm sometimes asked at my coffee shop.

But first, what is third wave or specialty coffee? First and foremost, it's a way of doing things that highlights the region, the terroir, the grower, the cultivar(s) used and the know-how of everyone involved in this great process. It's about giving the grain all the know-how we can offer to help it express itself fully. It's also about having a tasting lexicon and major events all over the world. It's about giving coffee back its noble notes!

It all starts with the producerthe farmer. It's thanks to him that we can succumb to this little pleasure in life. As far as I'm concerned, they're the most important people in the industry. The very basis of a good coffee will depend on many factors, including region, altitude, terroir, cultivar and processing method (more on this in another article!). Every little detail counts, and will ensure that the roaster can develop the most complete palette of aromas, much to our delight.

The work of the roaster is to, you guessed it, roast coffee. The aim of this art is to transform the bean, which is still green, into a bean that can be "cooked" for consumption. This is where the roaster's expertise comes into play. Depending on the type of coffee, roasting will be adapted to bring out the desired notes. Let's take a coffee from Kenya as an example. Generally, this region brings out fruity notes with a rich, acidic and syrupy body. You'll need the right temperature and time curve to extract these characteristics. The roaster will carry out several tests with different variables before finding the perfect compromise between fruitiness and sweetness, and between acidity and bitterness. Roasting coffee is an art!

In the past, we've been accustomed to over-roasted coffees with slightly smoky, bitter aromas and flavors that lack complexity. In other words, dark roast! I'm not saying it's evil incarnate, but let's just say it's not the best way to do justice to a bean that has worked hand in hand with Mother Nature. A coffee will be dull and lifeless if it has been over-roasted, and will obviously be one-sided in its taste perception. Conversely, a "paler" coffee will be open, with nuances and a frank, balanced complexity. You'll soon get a taste for this complexity, where aromatic layers overlap and hint at different flavors throughout the tasting.

So, to answer that question, yes, third-wave coffee will taste like coffee! It's different, of course, but you'll see that this difference is most enjoyable. It's a little pleasure where you can travel to the other side of the world, one sip at a time.

Whether you want to drink at your favorite café or buy a coffee to make at home, don't hesitate to talk to your barista. It's our job, and always a pleasure, to advise you on the perfect bean for you. Remember, there's no right or wrong choice, because at its heart, good coffee is coffee we enjoy drinking!

Cheers!
The Coffee Geek

July 25, 2018 — Marc-Alexandre Emond-Boisjoly


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